How To Care For Your Fishes Without Spending A Fortune
by: Partha Mitra
Whether you have a big sized aquarium with lots of fishes or just a glass bowl on your table with a couple of Gold fishes, they give you great pleasure and tranquility to see them.
Fishes are most soothing pets, but they can be real delicate too. However you can take a good care for your fishes by remembering some small tips.
Whether you are out for a couple of days, your fishes will be there waiting for you when you come back. Here are some tips to keep your fishes healthy.
1) Cleaning your aquarium or tank
Your fish survives in the water of your tank or your aquarium. Not only they eat in it but also the water gradually accumulates the bio-waste from our fishes and gravel.
So it makes a god sense to clean the aquarium and change the water once a week. Do not change the entire water immediately. Fishes are sensitive to water temperature and a sudden change may affect them. Collect your fishes in a tub or a plastic bag with some water of your tank or aquarium. Seal the plastic bag and put it safely. Then clean the aquarium and change the water. Put the plastic bag (with the fishes and water) inside the aquarium -without opening it. Let the temperature of the water inside the plastic bag change gradually to that of the new water in the aquarium. Your fishes will adapt to the new temperature. Then open the plastic bag and release the fishes inside the aquarium.
After all a clean aquarium is always more pleasant to look at.
2) Cleaning your aquarium’s air pump
Dirt and gravel often coagulates the air pump making it function less efficiently. Often bio-waste accumulates in the air filter. Consider changing the air filter at least once a month or as mentioned in the air-pump manual
3) Feeding your fishes.
One big word: Do Not Overfeed your fishes. Most aquarium fishes die of overfeeding rather then underfeeding. Also leftover foods (usually your fishes will continue eating till they are in real trouble!) contaminate the water, and promote bacteria harmful to the fishes. Feed the fish small amounts, which they can consume in three to five minutes and feed them daily. And if you are going out for a couple of days in the weekend, do not try to feed them an extra quantity on Friday. Your fishes will do well on an empty stomach for a couple of days. Also it is always better not to ask your helpful neighbor not to feed your fish when you are away for the weekend. The chances are that your over-zealous neighbor will overfeed them (with a good intention, of course!).
There is sufficient food in a balanced aquarium to keep fish healthy even though not fed for a day or more.
About The Author
Partha Mitra
See my e-book on Tropical fishes at http://dotpacket.net/tropical
partha@webmine.us
Tampilkan postingan dengan label feed. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label feed. Tampilkan semua postingan
Rabu, 17 Maret 2010
Selasa, 09 Maret 2010
How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium
How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium
by: Alden Smith
The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.
Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.
In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles on http://www.kingdiscus.com.
Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.
Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!
Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.
Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.
PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.
Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.
Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.
Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.
Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.
Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.
Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. this guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
About The Author
Alden Smith is a published author who has been publishing on the internet for 7 years. Visit his website, http://www.kindiscus.com, for articles, software, and other resources. This article is one of a series available at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
by: Alden Smith
The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.
Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.
In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles on http://www.kingdiscus.com.
Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.
Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!
Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.
Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.
PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.
Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.
Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.
Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.
Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.
Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.
Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. this guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
About The Author
Alden Smith is a published author who has been publishing on the internet for 7 years. Visit his website, http://www.kindiscus.com, for articles, software, and other resources. This article is one of a series available at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
Minggu, 14 Februari 2010
How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium
How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium
by: Alden Smith
The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.
Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.
In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles on http://www.kingdiscus.com.
Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.
Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!
Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.
Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.
PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.
Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.
Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.
Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.
Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.
Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.
Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. this guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
About The Author
Alden Smith is a published author who has been publishing on the internet for 7 years. Visit his website, http://www.kindiscus.com, for articles, software, and other resources. This article is one of a series available at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
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by: Alden Smith
The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.
Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.
In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles on http://www.kingdiscus.com.
Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.
Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!
Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.
Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.
PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.
Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.
Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.
Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.
Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.
Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.
Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. this guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
About The Author
Alden Smith is a published author who has been publishing on the internet for 7 years. Visit his website, http://www.kindiscus.com, for articles, software, and other resources. This article is one of a series available at http://www.kingdiscus.com.
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Rabu, 03 Februari 2010
provide fish
provide fish
fish feeding done every day. feeding amount per day set by conversi feed of the total weight of fish being kept. The average amount of feed given conversi in one day is of 3 - 5% of the total weight of fish being kept. The feed was given 3 times a day ie morning, afternoon and evening. feeding must be sufficiently and regularly as a function of feed in fish culture is a key element in determining the success of fish culture.
if given enough food and nutrients of the fish's survival will be better and any growth will be faster. and vice versa if the feed is given at random and not enough nutrients the fish will grow slowly so that the crop will decrease the amount of production.
feed can be given natural food or artificial feed, natural feed which can be either phytoplankton plankton and zooplankton. Artificial feed can be a pellet.
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Senin, 01 Februari 2010
cultivation to feed the earthworm eel
cultivation to feed the earthworm eel
earthworm
earthworm including natural feed for eels are easily and quickly grown. In nature, animals with a Latin name of this Lumbricus rubellus living in the soil berhumus. usually in a landfill is damp. These animals live in the soil or under piles of garbage.
earthworm actually be developed in the following way:
1. Prepare a box of wood or canvas measuring 0.5 x 0.5 meters at the edges of the support given bamboo.
2. Prepare a medium maintenance earthworms, cow dung that is sufficient, the rest of rotting vegetables, soil, and sawdust. Avoid entering materials such as orange peels or onion into worm rearing media. A good cow dung for use in the cultivation of earthworms is dirt that is still in the cow's stomach. This dirt can be obtained at the slaughterhouse.
3. Mix all ingredients together and add to the maintenance of a worm container.
4. Enter seed worms, the number of about 1 ounce (100 grams). In about 1-2 weeks already breed worms in large quantities. In order not to pile up, the worm will be given as feed should be separate.
source: Drs. Ruslan Roy, MM and BagusHarianto, Agromedia Pustaka, 2009
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earthworm
earthworm including natural feed for eels are easily and quickly grown. In nature, animals with a Latin name of this Lumbricus rubellus living in the soil berhumus. usually in a landfill is damp. These animals live in the soil or under piles of garbage.
earthworm actually be developed in the following way:
1. Prepare a box of wood or canvas measuring 0.5 x 0.5 meters at the edges of the support given bamboo.
2. Prepare a medium maintenance earthworms, cow dung that is sufficient, the rest of rotting vegetables, soil, and sawdust. Avoid entering materials such as orange peels or onion into worm rearing media. A good cow dung for use in the cultivation of earthworms is dirt that is still in the cow's stomach. This dirt can be obtained at the slaughterhouse.
3. Mix all ingredients together and add to the maintenance of a worm container.
4. Enter seed worms, the number of about 1 ounce (100 grams). In about 1-2 weeks already breed worms in large quantities. In order not to pile up, the worm will be given as feed should be separate.
source: Drs. Ruslan Roy, MM and BagusHarianto, Agromedia Pustaka, 2009
print this page
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Senin, 25 Januari 2010
provide fish
provide fishfish feeding done every day. feeding amount per day set by conversi feed of the total weight of fish being kept. The average amount of feed given conversi in one day is of 3 - 5% of the total weight of fish being kept. The feed was given 3 times a day ie morning, afternoon and evening. feeding must be sufficiently and regularly as a function of feed in fish culture is a key element in determining the success of fish culture.
if given enough food and nutrients of the fish's survival will be better and any growth will be faster. and vice versa if the feed is given at random and not enough nutrients the fish will grow slowly so that the crop will decrease the amount of production.
feed can be given natural food or artificial feed, natural feed which can be either phytoplankton plankton and zooplankton. Artificial feed can be a pellet.
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Sabtu, 16 Januari 2010
Vitamin Functions for fish
Vitamin Functions for fish.
Vitamin required in relatively small quantities, primarily to maintain health and growth of fish body. Judging from its physical properties, vitamins can be divided into two groups namely soluble vitamins and water soluble vitamins in fat. Vitamins that dissolve in water include thiamine (vitamin B), riboflavin (vitamin B2), pantothenic acid (vitamin B6), biotin, and kobalamin (vitamin B 2), and others.
Vitamin fat-soluble include retinol (vitamin A), kolekalsiferol or ergokalsiferol (vitamin D), alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), and menadion ', vitamin K).
Vitamin B1 B6, and B12 function to support growth and can stimulate appetite, whereas vitamin B2 plays a role in the growth and exchange of nutrients (such as carbohydrates, fats, and proteins) from the set of cells in the body of the fish and for the reproduction process.
Vitamin A serves to support eye health, while vitamin D is required for the metabolism of minerals (especially calcium and phosphorus). Vitamin E effect on fish movement and in the process of reproduction, whereas the effect of vitamin K in blood clotting process.
Source: Ir. M. Firdaus SAhwan, M.M. 2001
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Vitamin required in relatively small quantities, primarily to maintain health and growth of fish body. Judging from its physical properties, vitamins can be divided into two groups namely soluble vitamins and water soluble vitamins in fat. Vitamins that dissolve in water include thiamine (vitamin B), riboflavin (vitamin B2), pantothenic acid (vitamin B6), biotin, and kobalamin (vitamin B 2), and others.
Vitamin fat-soluble include retinol (vitamin A), kolekalsiferol or ergokalsiferol (vitamin D), alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), and menadion ', vitamin K).
Vitamin B1 B6, and B12 function to support growth and can stimulate appetite, whereas vitamin B2 plays a role in the growth and exchange of nutrients (such as carbohydrates, fats, and proteins) from the set of cells in the body of the fish and for the reproduction process.
Vitamin A serves to support eye health, while vitamin D is required for the metabolism of minerals (especially calcium and phosphorus). Vitamin E effect on fish movement and in the process of reproduction, whereas the effect of vitamin K in blood clotting process.
Source: Ir. M. Firdaus SAhwan, M.M. 2001
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Senin, 11 Januari 2010
Taro leaves (sente)
Taro leaves (sente)
taro leaves used as fish feed gouramy, especially for fish gouramy sized adult, this leaves a natural feed gouramy fish, because the properties of this fish is a tendency omnivores herbivores (plant eaters). Taro leaf is a favorite food fish gouramy, by maintaining this leaves the pond embankment then we will get some benefits. Advantage to be gained is that we can reduce the cost of feed (pellets) for the fish food requirements are met by some of these leaves. In addition to the growing benefits of this leaf in the pond embankment can protect the fish pond to sunlight, so that direct sunlight does not fall into the pond, this is mainly for fish are still small (seed) which likes a sheltered area as a refuge.
information on fish culture: http://hobiikan.blogspot.com
taro leaves used as fish feed gouramy, especially for fish gouramy sized adult, this leaves a natural feed gouramy fish, because the properties of this fish is a tendency omnivores herbivores (plant eaters). Taro leaf is a favorite food fish gouramy, by maintaining this leaves the pond embankment then we will get some benefits. Advantage to be gained is that we can reduce the cost of feed (pellets) for the fish food requirements are met by some of these leaves. In addition to the growing benefits of this leaf in the pond embankment can protect the fish pond to sunlight, so that direct sunlight does not fall into the pond, this is mainly for fish are still small (seed) which likes a sheltered area as a refuge.
information on fish culture: http://hobiikan.blogspot.com
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